After almost 2 weeks in northern Thailand, we headed to Chiang Khong, near the border with Laos. We’d spend the night here and cross into Laos in the morning to begin our 2-day adventure down the Mekong River to Luang Prabang.
Positioning for the Cruise
Our short stay in Chiang Khong was pleasant. Our room in the lodge was clean and spacious with big windows and a deck that looked out onto lush greenery and the Mekong in the distance. The grounds looked like the houseplant section of a big nursery back home. Big green leaves with pink veins, sword-like leaves with white stripes, waxy round leaves with white spots, and rows of purple fountain grass that only survives as an annual back in the Pacific Northwest. I saw three of the species we have in our living room, but on a much larger scale!
Crossing the Border from Thailand to Laos
We had a early breakfast at the lodge the next morning, enjoying the sunrise and the sounds of the birds. And then we were onto the van heading for the border crossing at Huay Xai.
It was not a quick process, but it was orderly and easy enough. First, we got our exit stamps on the Thai border, then the bus took us about a half mile to the Laos crossing where there were a series of steps to enter the country. The first line was to hand in the visa applications we’d filled out the night before, along with our passport photos, our actual passports, and the 40 bhat ($1.20) fee for crossing the border over the weekend. The second line was to pick up our passports, which now included our visas, and a QR code on a slip of paper. Lines 3 and 4 just looked again at our passports. I have no idea why, or why twice. And the final line was to pay the $40 fee for the visa itself and turn in the QR code. Unfortunately, my two $20 bills were rejected because they weren’t crisp enough; they’d been folded. But luckily there was an ATM in the building, so we passed the last hurdle by paying in Laotian kip instead, and we got on the bus with the folks with whom we’d be sharing the cruise, along with our Lao guide, La.
The Adventure Begins
The longboat was covered, but open. It had a row of wooden tables with bench seats on either side, shiny dark brown wood floors, kept clean because no shoes were allowed past the entrance, and a dark wood ceiling with exposed beams. Bright pink cushions and curtains, as well as carved wood railings, gave a nice pop to the décor.
There were 29 people on our cruise. Aside from three other Americans, all of the others were Germans or Brits. We’d be heading down the river together for 2 days, spending the night at a Lodge in Pakbeng, Laos and then ending the trip in Luang Prabang.
The first day, there was assigned seating and I was a little anxious about how we’d keep a conversation going with tablemates for the full day of cruising. But soon enough we realized that if we needed to change it up a bit, there was some seating at the back of the boat, some daybed-type seating at the front, or you could sit on the deck at the very front of the boat.
We shared our table with a young couple from the UK who were easy and fun to talk with. It’s always fun to compare stories and recommendations with fellow travelers. These two were on a 4-month sabbatical from their jobs. Many others had quit their jobs, as we had, in order to travel. And there were two men in their early 90s on our boat as well. What an inspiration to still be traveling internationally at that age!
After sailing for 3 hours or so, a yummy buffet lunch was served. We were each served a big mound of white rice and then on our own to add from the several options. There was a minty, limey chicken laab (very much like the larb gai you’d get at a Thai restaurant), a sweet and sour dish, rice noodles with vegetables, garlicky green beans, chicken wings, a salad with hardboiled eggs, and for dessert, a lovely fruit tray with mango and dragon fruit. There was more than enough food for everyone so we weren’t shy about going back for seconds.
Day One Stop - Lao Village
Another hour or so later, we arrived at our stop for the day – a small traditional Lao tribe village situated just up the sandy beach on the hillside. It’s one of those things as a tourist. You want to see what traditional life is like, and it is indeed interesting, but you feel awkward and uncomfortable walking by their small dwellings on stilts and gawking at what they’re doing while listening to La, our guide, explain about their daily lives as if they were on display at a museum. It was Sunday, so school was not in session, but we walked to see the empty school nonetheless. At least no one was selling anything. If nothing else, it was good to stretch our legs and get some steps in.
Remainder of Day One
Back on the boat for the remainder of the day, we fully settled in. The best word to describe the cruise, I would say, would be relaxing. You could chat with others, or just stare out at the scenery passing by, but that was it. No internet connection, no entertainment, just a relaxing glide down the river, the fastest pace being around 21 mph. I listened to the sound of the motor, the water splashing as the boat cut its way through, the sound of conversation and the occasional bursts of laughter from my fellow boat mates. The temperature was very pleasant and the breeze on my face refreshing.
The current of the muddy brown river was mostly very smooth with just a few segments of rapids and whirlpools. The riverbanks mostly sandy with lush green hills and low mountains behind covered with dense vegetation. It was interesting to witness the activities of the people who live near the river. Some were fishing, others were panning for gold (gold is the second largest export of Laos). But you were more likely to see pink or red water buffalo, cows or goats than people. We passed the occasional shack or small dwelling in the hillside, but otherwise, the land was undeveloped and wild. And for the most part, the river was ours as well. Only occasionally did another longboat or small fishing boat pass by.
We docked shortly before sunset in Pakbeng and vans deposited us at our respective lodges. We had a nice dinner there and hit the hay early. Many of us were surprised how a day of doing basically nothing really took it out of us and we were ready for bed!
Day Two
Day two of our cruise started out overcast and cool, which translated into pretty chilly once we were on the boat with the full breeze coming through. I was happy I had my hooded sweatshirt and travel towel that can also serve as a throw or a scarf. The ‘crew’ (pretty sure it was the captain’s wife) also passed out fluffy pink Hello Kitty blankets to folks who wanted them. But soon enough the fog lifted to reveal another bright sunny day and blankets, hoods, and layers were removed.
We had two stops on our way to Luang Prabang. Again, neither were activities I would’ve sought out to do, but they were helpful to break up the day. First, we went to the Pak Ou caves – two caves in a cliff face up from the Mekong with over 4,000 Budda statues. Apparently, the caves were originally identified in the 16th century and were used as a place to safeguard the figures during times of war, But Budda figurines continue to be left there today for good luck.
The second stop was another Lao village, this one more contemporary than the last. It’s famous for the rice whiskey they make, and the silk and cotton scarves they weave. La gave us a presentation about the way the whiskey is made, and folks had the opportunity to try 3 different varieties. The first was fruity and mild, the second smelled like rice wine vinegar, and the third was a whopping 50% alcohol! I figured the end of the trip would either be really rowdy, or everyone would be asleep.
The Cruise Comes to a Close
We really enjoyed the cruise. It was a unique and very peaceful experience that forced us, in a good way, to shift to a lower gear, and gave us the opportunity to not just meet, but to really get to know some wonderful people. By the time we got back on the boat though, I was ready for the cruise to be over and to be settled in at our hotel. We disembarked, around 6 pm, grabbed our bags, said our goodbyes, and boarded shuttlebuses to take us to our respective hotels in town.
It felt nice to be back on our own again. Free to do what we wanted, when we wanted, and to be back to just the two of us. But, it also felt so nice to run into people from the cruise in town, greet each other like old friends with big hugs, and compare notes about what we’d been up to in Luang Prabang so far. We hope to keep in touch and that our paths cross again in the future.
2 Comments
Thanks for the great details! I think it’s important to “disconnect” for a few days – and you obviously enjoyed the slower pace during the cruise. It’s all about balance-you seemed to enjoy the experience, engage with new friends and still have a chance to do your own thing. Thanks for bringing us along!
I really need to think about how to incorporate your strategy of “down-shifting” on our long trips. After reading about your cruise, I feel like some re-charge time would be so helpful. What an amazing adventure you and Ivan are on. I’m so glad you are sharing it….